A word on the pint. Cork is proud stout country, and the local rivalry between Beamish and Murphy's, both brewed here for generations, is a real thing. Order either instead of the obvious and you'll get a warmer welcome. If you'd rather taste the whole story properly, that's a walk of its own we're working on.
For live trad
Sin É
On Coburg Street, and the reliable one for a session. There's music most nights from around six, informal and often brilliant, and the place fills up fast when it's good. Come early for a seat, and don't be surprised if a session starts up beside you without warning.
An Spailpín Fánach
One of the city's oldest pubs, on South Main Street opposite the old Beamish brewery, low-lit and full of character, with regular trad sessions. It's a couple of minutes from our meeting point, so an easy one to picture from the walk.
For a quiet pint
The Mutton Lane Inn
Tucked down its own tiny lane off Patrick Street, candlelit and snug, and about as atmospheric as a Cork pub gets. It's small, so it's shoulder to shoulder when it's busy, but on a quiet evening there's nowhere better for a slow pint out of the weather.
The Long Valley
Running since 1842, with a bar counter that hasn't changed in living memory and a name for its doorstep sandwiches. It's a Cork landmark in its own right, more a piece of the city than a night out. Good any time of day for a pint and a bit of history.
For the conversation
The Castle Inn
On South Main Street, and proudly plain: no music, no screens, just pints and talk. If you want the version of the Irish pub where you can actually hear the person across the table, this is it. One of the oldest bars in the city, and all the better for doing nothing fancy.
For the whiskey
The Shelbourne Bar
On MacCurtain Street, with a back-bar of several hundred Irish whiskeys and staff who know them. Come for a guided taste of something you'd never find at home, or just a well-poured Cork stout. A good last stop on the north side of the river.
Hungry first? Our where to eat page has dinner sorted, and the one-day plan ends the night the way Cork does. See the walk.